Wednesday, December 09, 2020

Gastronomic Delights: Boeuf Bourguignon



Gastronomic Delights: Boeuf Bourguignon


So a long time ago I did an imaginatively entitled series of mixes called ‘Gastronomic Delights’. These were all by me and each episode was named after a classic dish. (They are still preserved within these pages, but the links to the mixes don’t work anymore.) I liked that series because I’m sure they got this blog more traffic as passing trade would happen upon the name of the meal, follow the link and, probably unexpectedly, be introduced to some great music in the process. 


This mix marks the return of said series. It’s also the first mix I’ve done this year. I don’t know why this has been the case as I’ve been home a lot more, but the obvious change of routine hasn’t meant more time behind the decks. I also don’t have a track list for this, but I will try and retrace my steps over the next week or so.


Here is Michel Roux Junior’s recipe for Boeuf Bourguignon. I follow my own instinctive path to culinary perfection where this party on as plate is concerned. I don’t use brandy or the tiny onions, but would if I had either, just to see.


Boeuf Bourguignon

Some recipes suggest marinating the beef for 24 hours or more, but I find this makes for a gamey flavour that’s not entirely true to the original. Like all braised dishes, this is best eaten a day or two after it’s made – simmer gently to reheat and add the garnish just before serving so that it’s bright and fresh. Boiled potatoes are the classic accompaniment but mash is more to my taste.” – Michel Roux Jr

Serves 4

Ingredients

1 bottle of red Burgundy wine

700g braising beef (chuck is good but cheek is best)

plain flour, for dusting

vegetable oil

1 onion, peeled and sliced

2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

60ml brandy

1 bouquet garni, made up of thyme, bay leaf and parsley stalks

400ml beef or veal stock (see below)

2 tbsp cold unsalted butter

salt

black pepper

Garnish

3 tbsp unsalted butter

12 brown-skinned cocktail or button onions (or small shallots), peeled

12 young carrots, peeled

120g smoked streaky bacon rashers or ventrèche, cut into thin strips

12 button mushrooms, wiped

juice of ½ lemon

Method

Pour the wine into a saucepan and boil until reduced by half. Trim the beef and cut it into 3cm cubes, then dust with flour. Heat a frying pan until very hot, add a dash of oil and brown the beef well on all sides. Do this in batches so you don’t overcrowd the pan. Preheat the oven to 160°C/Fan 140°C/Gas 3.

Once all the beef has been browned and set aside, discard the oil and add a tablespoon of clean oil, the sliced onion and crushed garlic. Cook until the onion is brown and caramelised, then put the meat back in the pan. Add the brandy, followed by the reduced wine, and simmer for 2–3 minutes.

Pour everything into a cast-iron casserole dish, then season and add the bouquet garni and stock. Bring to a simmer, skim well to remove any surface scum and cover loosely with a lid or greaseproof paper. Place in the oven and cook until the meat is tender – this should take 1½–2 hours, depending on the cut. Leave to cool, then take the meat out of the dish and set aside. Skim to remove any fat, then pass the liquid through a sieve into a pan. Boil until it thickens to a sauce, then add the meat. Cover and chill until needed.

To prepare the garnish, melt a tablespoon of butter in a saucepan and add the onions, seasoning, 2 tablespoons of the sauce from the beef and 4 tablespoons of water. Braise the onions until they are shiny and cooked through. Put the carrots in a pan with just enough water to cover and most of the rest of the butter. Season and bring to a gentle boil, then cook until almost all the liquid has evaporated and the carrots are tender and shiny with butter. Brown the strips of bacon in a frying pan. Sweat the mushrooms in a little butter until cooked but still firm and add seasoning and lemon juice.

To serve, gently reheat the boeuf bourguignon on the hob while you prepare the garnish. Add a couple of knobs of cold butter to enrich and shine the sauce, then garnish with the onions, carrots, bacon and mushrooms. Take the dish to the table for everyone to admire, then serve in wide bowls.








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